Full of life, full of Flavors of East Africa
Alvin, owner and head chef of Flavors of East Africa in San Diego, Calif.
A fragrant whiff of beef stew surrounded Alvin Owino’s apartment but his roommate and neighbors wouldn’t believe it was him who had done the cooking. He would explain again and again that the aromas were of his own doing, not of a restaurant or mysterious chef lurking in the kitchen somewhere. Alvin was the concoctor. He was the chef all along.
Also known as June because that was the month he was born in, Alvin arrived in the U.S. in 2001. As the owner and head chef at Flavors of East Africa in the North Park neighborhood of San Diego, Alvin/June is far from his days of cooking for one. In fact, he can manage to cook for 300 guests in three hours—the same amount of time it used to take me to cook a full dinner for two people. But Alvin is a professional and cooking is not only his forte but his passion and calling in life.
Following the signs
One of Alvin’s first jobs was as an accountant at a construction company. His former colleagues would ask him where they could find Kenyan or African food around town. There were none at the time, so he would teasingly respond by letting them know that one day he was going to open his own restaurant. He did in the end, of course.
During the economic recession in 2005, Alvin lost his day job but supplemented his unemployment checks with cooking and catering for neighbors. The gigs paid now that they knew Alvin was the real deal in the kitchen. One neighbor offered to bring beer every day so long as Alvin cooked. It was the company and free beer that Alvin couldn’t resist.
One day, someone took notice and had a job offer.
Every week without fail
In 2005, this someone approached Alvin and asked if he could help cook at his food stall at the Ocean Beach Farmer’s Market. While helping out, Alvin became interested in creating new food dishes. If the proceeds of whatever he created exceeded $200, then Alvin and the owner were to split the profits. Deep down, Alvin knew he had something. The partnership took place over one year but in the end, Alvin was the last man standing.
Back then, Flavors of East Africa came out of Alvin’s time assisting someone else’s food stall. 17 years later, Alvin and his staff have not missed a weekly Ocean Beach Farmer’s Market since.
Maternal influence
As a young boy in Nairobi, Kenya, Alvin was taught the fundamentals of cooking—how to chop, be organized in the kitchen and assess the taste of whatever was simmering on the stovetop—by his mother and grandmother. They were the ones who ignited his curiosity in the kitchen and to this day, Alvin recalls his first and fondest memories of cooking alongside his maternal side.
Alvin explored his curiosity for cooking in greater detail while studying at university in Karnataka, India. A formal relationship between Kenya and India at the time made it easier for him to make the transition to a new country. It was there where Alvin learned about Indian spices and their significant influence on Kenyan appetizers, stews & curries.
Image 1 - Oxtails served with red sauce, Wali Rice & African Garden Salad
Image 2 - Jerk Chicken, Coconut Rice & Fried Plantains
Being a restaurant entrepreneur
His job as both chef and restaurant owner is around the clock. When he’s not cooking a feast for hundreds of diners or strollers at the Farmer’s Market, Alvin is shopping for ingredients at places like Restaurant Depot for bulk orders and Cash N Carry for Indian spices.
The unglamorous parts of Alvin’s job right now include the national supply chain challenges and shortage of labor. According to Alvin, what used to used to cost him $25 for 40 pounds of chicken is now costing $75 for the same amount. This is also an employee market, so paying workers a higher wage is another hit to the restaurant’s expenditures. “This is all temporary,” said Alvin, encouraging diners to be patient while the raising costs of demand vs. supply plays out.
Still, the food you get at Flavors of East Africa offers value. Take for example the rice or ugali (dense and stiff corn porridge), side of veggies and generous protein you get when you order a main dish. When you order a Whole Samaki ($20.95) or tilapia served fried with a tomato curry sauce on top or Mbuzi Choma ($24.95) or stewed goat curry, you can have the meals for both dinner and lunch the next day.
Dine at Flavors of East Africa
You can find Flavors of East Africa at the Farmer’s Market in Ocean Beach, Hillcrest, San Diego State University and throughout cultural celebrations, including Taste of Inglewood recently, where the eponymous Issa Rae received the keys to the city. Plus, festivals are alive and well again in 2022! So check out the restaurant’s flavors at Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival.
Alvin’s restaurant business continues to be a hit, but his greatest triumph is being able to do work he enjoys each day. As he puts it, “The only way you’ll be positive in life is if you eat good food. Food comes first. Eat good, live long, be happy. Simple.”
Thank you for collaborating on this story with me, Chef Alvin and Manager David!
& Thank you all for stoping by! Show your support by dining at any Flavors of East Africa location any day of the week.
Flavors of East Africa
Restaurants | website | @flavorsofeastafrica
2322 El Cajon Blvd, San Diego, CA 92104
5157 College Ave, Unit C San Diego, CA 92115
Farmers Markets
Ocean Beach | 4900 Newport Ave | 4 pm - 8 pm
Hillcrest | 3960 Normal Street | 9 am - 2 pm